Second on Paul's birthday list after the Museo Ferrari and way back on 2 July, was a visit to the tiny country of San Marino which is located in north east Italy.
The Republic of San Marino is literally a mountain, with an ancient castle on the very peak. The hotel that Paul chose was only marginally lower than the castle and the road up the mountain stopped at the hotel's front door. We copped heaps from the old lady at the hotel for driving the final 100 metres of the road, through the old village centre to reach the hotel.
Didn't we read the hotel instructions printed on our booking confirmation telling us that the final section of road was pedestrians only during the day? Didn't we see the signs at the old medieval gate advising no cars in the old town until 7 o'clock? Were we stupido? What did we think we were doing? Who did we think we were? She gave us a real blast!
Well! Paul was both offended and mortified. Given his attention to every detail of whatever he does, he was sure he had read and understood the arrival instructions correctly. He apologised to the old lady for his error and retreated to his computer (and her internet) to re-check the detail, but not before he threw open our window to take in the view.
When next he ventured into reception, the old lady was on the terrace enjoying her bird's eye view of the village's evening activity and a younger man, about our age and possibly her son, was behind the desk.
Never to be out-gunned, especially by a crotchety old woman, Paul pointed out to the aforesaid gent that the hotel's English translation of the pedestrian zone times printed on our booking slip, actually said "No entry between 7pm and 10am", whereas, to be correct, it should read "No entry between 10am and 7pm". It really does make a big difference, explained Paul. Completely baffled and unable to understand the finer point of the differences between the two instructions, the gent says "Well, no worries signore, the cameras weren't turned on today anyway."
But we did notice we got better than the previous service from the old lady when we sat on her terrace, petted her dog, ordered a beer and marvelled at her view.
San Marino is a wealthy enclave that tries to remain aloof from the mess of Italy that surrounds it. It is an independent Republic about 30 km long by 5 km wide and is, quite literally, a mountain!
As soon as the road from Rimini (on the coast) crosses the border into the Republic it begins to climb and doesn't stop until it gets to our hotel and the castle at the very top. So of course, the views are stunning.
When we climbed up to the castle around 5pm, the local historical society members were rehearsing for a performance.
Looking east, the shadow of the mountain and its the castle make an interesting picture.
In the distance is the Italian coast, the Adriatic, about 20 km away.
Looking out the other way, along the ramparts that were the original mediaeval town walls.
From the castle looking along the mountain edge to the Eagle's Eyrie restaurant at the very tip where we enjoyed a great birthday dinner.
Waiting for the pizza to arrive between rehearsal and the main performance at 9.30pm.
That's Paul up there at the very top window. It was necessary to climb through a vertical stone tunnel to get there. There was no way I could face that after years of "trapped in a dark tunnel" nightmares from years ago.
The dungeons and soldiers barracks.
A very old medallion of San Marino showing the castle and fortified city on the rock mountain. The site is UNESCO World Heritage listed.
The notice on the wall as we left the castle reads:
The First Tower of Guaita
The Children and the Court of Olneibo
and
The Dramatic Company of Istriche
present
the spectacle of the historical reconstruction
The Time of the WitchHunt
- the trial of the witch.
This evening at 21.30
Free entry
There was a lot of blood flying around at rehearsal so I suspect the end won't be pretty - the costumes were good, though.
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