20. In search of Bistronomie

Bracing another cool day with a wind straight off the North Sea, we ventured out on a quest for the nouvelle cuisine - bistronomie.

Paul has been reading and researching the brave new chefs of Paris, the bistronomie movement, several of whom are Australians, who have eschewed Michelin stars in lieu of fresh produce, simpler dishes and more affordable dining.

Having spent many hours selecting those he was interested in, plotting them in his 112 page, pocket version of PARIS Circulation (map), off we went with brolly and multiple scarves in search of the bistronomie.

Up rue Réaumur and past Paul's absolute favourite museum, Le Musée des Arts et Métiers (arts and artisans).

It is a glorious building, formerly a monastery.  Many public buildings, especially museums were formerly religeous buildings of some type.  Makes you think that history is more popular than religion.  Remember the furore John Lennon created when he suggested the Beatles were more popular than religion?  But I digress.

On we walked, up rue de Bretagne, passed the statue "Harmonie".

Passed a lovely little park called "Le Square du Temple", complete with a lake, ducks, tulips, sculpture and even a little waterfall.

Most parks have free wifi, which makes it possible to have these virtually indestructible video games consoles on swivel supports, so your friend can play too.

There was also a chess table, a table tennis table, a rotunda, grass for ball games and a little climbing frame play area at the far end.  And all of this serenity exists with busy traffic on three sides.

On we walked, passed Attica, the bookshop of languages.

Passed VNP - no, not Viv-n-Paul but Very Nice Pizza.   

We finally stopped at La Marché des Enfants Rouges (the market of the red children).  I would have taken a photo of the entrance with a sign naming the market.  But there wasn't one.  So unless you knew where you were going, you would have walked right past the tiny "hole in the wall entrance",  not knowing what you had missed.

Well, obviously we had missed the fish stall today;  but this cat was making sure she found any morsel left behind.

The Italian deli was open.

So was the African cafe.  The Japanese cafe was closed but the Turkish and Lebanese were both open.  

Last time we visited Le Marché des Enfants Rouges, we ate delicious Turkish three meat tagine, 

and couscous with vegetables.  

So this time we decided on Italian.  A bottle of cold water, a glass of vin ordinaire

and a shared plate of calamari and prawns.

Still hungry after our long walk and knowing that I don't cook dinner if we eat at lunchtime, we decided to blow the low-carb diet  and order pasta with truffles.  

Illy coffee to finish.  

Absolutely delicious - great wine, young but very good, fresh calamari and prawns cooked by people who know how to cook, fresh salad, dressed Italian style, stunning pasta with truffles, great coffee.  And all for €49.00 ($64AUD).  Food is expensive in France.  Good food is very expensive, so its a great win to find good food that's cheap.

Fortified by a long lunch break, we walk on.

Passed a butcher who thinks people will buy his chooks (albeit free range) at €11.80 per kilo.  That means that this chook would cost €24.90 or nearly $30AUD!  Tell him he's dreaming!

And his canettes (ducks) were just as expensive at €9.95 per kilo.  So on we walked.

The first restaurant on our search list was Le Marie Celeste.  An oyster bar with happy hour between 5pm and 7pm with oysters at €1 each.  But for some reason, Paul was not impressed.  The word "pretentious" popped into his conversation.

So on we went.  A couple more kilometres later and we found Au Passage. Recommended by an Australian food and travel writer who has a regular spot on ABC Nights with Tony Delroy.  Also widely recommended in blogs and on food sites, but it looked like a dump.

On we went.  This is Le Chateaubriand.  Catalan cuisine and the top rated French restaurant in the "World's Best Restaurants 2013" where it is rated 18th in the world and ahead of five, Paris 3 star Michelins.  

Chef, Inaki Aizpitarte, who was sitting quietly in the corner with his iPad, is credited as the founder of the bistronomie movement in France.  No Michelin stars for him.  Needless to say we made a booking here.  

Next is Bones.  We made a booking here, too.  An Aussie chef who is booked out for weeks. A leading light ino the new bistronomie movement.  A cosy place that smelt terrific - but impossible to get bookings by phone, you need to turn up in person to book.

And finally Septime.  We had to wait a month for a booking here.  

I went to a Masterclass with the owner of Septime, chef Bertrand Grébaut,  at the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival in March where I sat with Stephanie Alexander - just name dropping again.  

And finally, Septime's Wine Bar, just around the corner, where they send the overflow of people who they can't serve in the restaurant and also as a holding area for people whose table is not yet free.

Well, that was a productive day.