Another Proper Busride: 34. Sunday in the Park

It is Sunday.

Sunday means parks and picnics day in Paris. I'm not into picnics, but I do love a good park. Despite a stiff breeze and not a hint of sun, we pack the brolly and head off to the 19th arrondissement, to the Parc des Buttes Chaumont.

Because of the park's location there are great views over the city, including views of Sacre Coeur, also on a hill. It is a large park of over 60 acres with 5 km of walking tracks, but it is not a manicured park in the way of Paris' smaller parks. This is a park of big vistas and big trees.

During the 18thC the area had had gallows and had been used as an execution site for criminals. Later it became a lime quarry and then, and until 1862, it was a public waste ground or tip.

But in 1862 it was bought by the city of Paris and Napoleon III decided to create a park for the working-class area of Chaumont, which had just been annexed to the city of Paris.

And it was our old friend Baron Haussmann who got the gig to design the park. After four years of construction the park was opened for the Universal Exhibition of 1867.

Using dynamite to create dramatic reliefs, Haussmann created a huge rocky cliff with a 32 metre waterfall plunging into a circular lake. Somehow we missed the waterfall, but we found the lake.

It's hard to see, I know - but that is the white outline of Sacre Couer on the highest point of the distant hill.

On top of Haussmann's man-made folly is the temple of Sybille, a small temple modelled on the ancient Roman temple of Sybil in Tivoli, Italy.

But the Baron didn't design this little cutie. It's a portable lock-up corner shop and because of France's very sensible licensing laws, you can buy a bag of lollies or an ice-cream for the kids, a sandwich or a salad for mum and dad and a red wine or beer for whoever wants one.

We chose the beer and found a spot in the sun - but only for a few brief moments until the wind whipped the clouds across it again.

Heading off, we decided to walk to the downhill entrance to the park, to look at the Marie (town hall) of the 19th arrondissement. And right outside the park gates, virtually on the side of the road, and in front of the Marie, there was a wedding. Well ..... part of a wedding, anyway. But with plenty of action.

Cast of characters:

Far left- guy leaning on car; second from left with black and white blanket - bagpipe player; centre left in blue shirt - bongo player; behind bongo player and out of sight - big drum player.

Centre- small guy all in black - photographer.

Right- with suit and tie - groom; far right with white shirt - best man.

Action:

Fabulous, loud rhythms, much clapping and arm waving. Much shouting at appropriate times. Therefore, much noise.

More characters:

The bride with what we assume is her family (although we couldn't identify anyone old enough to resemble parents, let alone grandparents, anywhere).

More action:

Much dancing to the music, but by men only - led by the best man.

Yet more action:

Farewell hugs for the bride.

Lots and lots of action:

The groom claims the bride. Hang-on, maybe that's the photographer who has claimed the bride.

Where is the Director?

Clarifying the action:

No, its definitely the groom. He's claimed the bride. He's telling the photographer to bugger off! You can see the big drum now. Crescendo building, the big drummer has stepped forward, lots of clapping now ........... bride gets sort of shoved into the car, groom jumps in (yes, it is the groom and not the photographer) after her.

Car speeds off.

Drumming stops. Bagpipes stop. Everyone gets into a car. Cars all drive off.

Cut!

All over red rover!

Only the photographer is left.

We hop on the Metro and head for another park.

This time it is Parc Monceau in the 8th arrondissement at the rear of the mansion Hôtel Camondo (see post No. 33). Much more of a manicured park than Buttes Chaumont.