88. Saint Malo - Brittany

We spent three nights in the walled port city of Saint Malo on the northern coast of Brittany, from where we made our excursions to the oyster beds and along the northern coastline.  Saint Malo is a very unusual place.

"Saint Malo became notorious as the home of the corsairs, French privateers and sometimes pirates. The corsairs of Saint Malo not only forced English ships passing up the Channel to pay tribute, but also brought wealth from further afield. Jacques Cartier, who sailed the Saint Lawrence River and visited the sites of Quebec City and Montreal – and is thus credited as the discoverer of Canada, lived in and sailed from Saint-Malo, as did the first colonists to settle the Falklands."

I've included a photo taken from above at low tide to show how the bastide town is encased within walls, with the Atlantic pounding it on two sides.  

Saint Malo traces its modern origins to a monastic settlement early in the 6th century. Its name is derived from a monk said to have been Welsh.

It was very late in the afternoon as we mounted the city walls to walk all the way around the old town. 

The buildings are all five stories, which makes it almost impossible for sun-penetration (i.e. warmth).

Much of the town is pedestrian, especially around the restraunt areas, but some cars are allowed, such as residents, hotels guests, deliveries.

This area was always crowded because it faced south and caught the sun.

These restaurants are actually located within the structure of the walls but they have been allowed to erect these forward-facing extensions as 'outdoor' areas.

Looking over the modern city outside the walls on the non-sea side.

This is the beginning of the main retail area.  You can tell from the clothing in the shops that this is the sort of place where you need jumpers and jackets, coats, scarves, boots and headwear - all year round!.  A nice place to visit but I couldn't live here.

A "down" section in the walls.

Originally the Duke's palace, now the Marie.

The Duke needed towers and dungeons which were propped up by a flying buttress or two.  This is now part of the town square.

The Marie and the town square from another angle and with just a tiny hint of very late afternoon sun.

They have very hygenic canines here in Saint Malo.

Now we have reached the first of the two sides of the town that face the sea.  And the tide is rising, so there is only this small section of paved ramp not yet covered by water.

Paul (carrying my pink shopping bag) couldn't resist getting his feet wet.

And this brave soul, or was it crazy woman, was the only swimmer.

The light was fantastic as the sun went down and the photographers were making the most of it.

This fort is accessible on foot at low tide.  It is built on one of the many large rocky islands in the sea, close to shore.

Apparently, standing poles in the water like this is a traditional way to form a  breakwater of sorts.

Whatever their purpose, they look fabulous.

More very tall buildings on the side of the town facing the sea, where maintenance must be a nightmare. This building is a hotel with lots of recent and careful renovation work evident.

Another little strip of sand about to be swallowed up by the sea.

Three old fashioned sailing boats out late.  The one with the black sails was particularly stunning.

I wasn't prepared to stay out much longer to see how far this tide would come up the wall, but it could be quite a way.

The black sails against the sunset.

We have almost circled the town now. They can't be expecting an extremely high tide as there are still small sailboards and things stored on the ramp here.

And finally, mounted high and pointing the way - the greatest corsair of them all .......  I'll insert his name when I can find it.

The only warm and cosy spot we found in Saint Malo was this very unusual bar where every surface, including the ceiling, was decorated with collections of objects.  Accordians were the go here, hanging from the ceiling.